After buying a car, I decided to make a diagnosis, since I had a k-line adapter. I got a block on it sticker npp itlma 21126-1411020-12 I373da01.
I read the block. Got only firmware from Paulus, I'll honestly say that what was flooded did not like at all, the machine jerked, constant jerks when switching. Stitched as I understood because the spider 4-1 was put instead of the catalyst, but both oxygen sensors were screwed into the pipe.
For a long time I searched both on the Internet and on the driver which program and firmware to flash my block.
And then I came across the articles , and already in his records he found a link , which was stitched with free software.
The block was stitched with the help of a simple and very affordable Romocable.
Well, we'll start, for the reprog, we need two resistors for a half-watt, preferably the imported ones have thin legs and do not need to be pushed by the passports. They do not need to enter the holes of the block's board quietly, the resistors are rated at 1.8 kΩ.
Next, we remove the block from the car and carry it home or in the garage, open it and modify it for reprog by putting two 1.8 kΩ resistors in the board holes here.
That's how it looks
Block ready for rework
There is of course an old method in which the board needs to turn the resistor for the reprog, and then return it back, but I think why do it if you can make it easier and faster!
Here's how it is done with a soldering resistor, as you need a good soldering iron and a hard hand
Here is the connection diagram to the computer
51,53 ECU contact — Mass
71 track ECU — K-Line
13 track ECU — Switch on the ignition (+ 12V) (apply last).
12 track ECU — Power failure (+ 12V)
43 track ECU — Programming resolution (+ 12V, via a 4KΩ resistor) (apply before ignition is switched on).
44.63 ECU contact — Main relay power supply (+ 12V)
On the connector of the unit in the interior, the terminal contacts are numbered, from which we count the required ones and connect them.
The whole block is ready for the reprog, then we do the reprog with the ST10Flasher program.
The program st10flasher understands only Decrypted firmware (thanks to Slavik792, for the firmware i373da02 and i373db04)
It will be stitched in the boot mode (BSL), Itelma through the boot can and read and sew, in Avtel do not climb! You can also sew a block of m73 avtel from the classics!
The size of the decrypted firmware for m73 is 589 824 bytes!
Further our actions
1. Tumbler S1 is a toggle switch for simulating the ignition on and off.
2. Run the program in it select our block, it's either m73 or January 7.2+ and the port number on which our K-Line adapter hangs, we leave the port speed as it is.
3. Everything is connected, the program is started and configured, turn on the S1 toggle switch and then click in the SET COMMUNICATION program, the connection is established, then click on FLASH and save our firmware!
4. If the block does not have an IMMO, then it is desirable to clear the EEPROM, then click CLEAR EEPROM, if it did not work out erase then turn off the toggle switch S1 and turn it on and click CONNECT and try again.
5.Yes you can download our new firmware to the block, click in the DOWNLOAD FLASH program and specify the path to the new firmware click open (ATTENTION by clicking open the program will immediately begin to flash the block)
The firmware is loaded, turn off the toggle switch S1.
6. After reproga remove the resistors, collect the unit and carry to the car to check the fruits of the work —
DO NOT FORGET TO MAKE INITIALIZATION.
It is worth recalling that this is done at your own peril and risk. IN THE PRODUCTION BLOCKS, AVTEL DOES NOT LEAVE THIS METHOD IF YOU ARE NOT SURE THAT THE BLOCK IS OPEN! The block can lie down and it will be necessary to go to the store for a new one
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